Acorn Topper Hat

Well, another day, another hat!  This reminds me of acorns, I don’t know why, must be the colour and the random brown and black flecks within the wool.

Constructed with a tubular cast on, work a twisted 1×1 rib and then about 4″ of a lace pattern.  The decreases fall perfectly in line and finished with a little I-Cord topper!

What do you think?  Pattern worthy?

On another note, new mitts are on the needles, so pictures will be up soon ! would love to create a recipe for them as the last mitts went down so well.


On the Diamond Trail – Free Pattern!

On the Diamond Trail

I love hunting for complex looking stitch patterns which are surprisingly easy. This Eyelet Twist Panel looks so effective but is easy to execute. Hats are perfect for trying out new patterns.

Yarn: DK weight, approx 180 yards (I used 55 grams of my chosen yarn)

Gauge: 5 ½ stitches per inch, although I don’t take notice of gauge on hats!

Needles: 4mm 16” circular and 4mm DPNs for crown (I personally switch to magic loop)

Notions: Needle & stitch marker

2×2 Tubular Cast On – I won’t detail this here in case you decide to use your own favourite cast on, but I used a tubular cast on, it looks the part and is very very stretchy! If you decide you want to try this method, go to –×2.html

Abbreviations used in this pattern –
YO – yarn over: wrap the yarn around right needle
SSK – slip, slip, knit slipped stitches tog. A decrease
K2TOG – knit 2 stitches together
SSSK – slip, slip, slip, knit 3 slipped stitches together. A double decrease
SL1 – slip a stitch knit-wise
*_* – Repeat instructions between asterisks, for whole round in this instance

Cast on 116 stitches – join to work in the round being careful not to twist the stitches, place marker.

  • Work *K2, P2* ribbing for 1”
  • Work one round in plain knit, making 1 stitch at the beginning of the round = 117 stitches.

Stitch Pattern consists of 18 rows –

Row 1 (and all odd rows 1-17): Knit

2: *K1, (yo, ssk) twice, k3, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1*

4: *K2, (yo, ssk) twice, k1 (k2tog, yo) twice, k2*

6: *K3, yo, ssk, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2tog, yo, k3*

8: *K4, yo, sssk, yo, k2tog, yo, k4*

10: *K4, (k2tog, yo) twice, k5*

12: *K3, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1, yo, ssk, k3*

14: *K2, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k2*

16: *K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1*

18: *(k2tog, yo) twice, k5, (yo, ssk) twice*

Work rows 1-18 three times

Decrease Rounds

Row 1 (and all odd rows up to row 17): Knit

2: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k9*

4: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k8*

6: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k7*

8: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k6*

10: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k5*

12: *K2otg, yo, k2tog, k4*

14: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k3*

16: *K2tog, yo, k2tog, k2tog*

18: *K2tog*

19: *K2tog*
Break of yarn, weave through remaining stitches, pull tight and weave in any ends.

Autumnal Mitts – Free Pattern!

Autumnal Mitts

Simple wrist warmers for those not quite winter days, depending on yarn used of course!

Yarn: DK yarn, 130yards / 40grams (I used Sirdar Calico, 60% cotton, 40% acrylic – 158m / 172 yds per 50g skein
Needles: 4mm circular needle long enough for magic loop, suggested 32”
Notions: stitch markers, waste yarn, tapestry needle

Stitch Pattern – Needle 1 = N1 / Needle 2 = N2On every row, N2 (needle 2) is worked in plain knit unless specified

Row 1: N1 – k2, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p2, yo, k1, ssk, k3, p1, k2
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8: N1 – k2, p1, k6, p2, k6, p1, k2
Row 3: N1 – k2, p1, k2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2, p1, k2
Row 5: N1 – k2, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k1, p1, k2
Row 7: N1 – k2, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2

Cast on 40 stitches, 20 stitches on each needle. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. You could place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round if you wish.

  • Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 10 rounds
  • Knit one round plain to set up for the pattern
  • Work rows 1-8 of the stitch pattern a total of three times. (If you wanted a longer arm length, then this would be the time to do another round or two.)

Thumb Gusset – We will be maintaining the pattern on needle one whilst introducing the thumb gusset on the second needle.

Row 1: N1 – k2, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p2, yo, k1, ssk, k3, p1, k2
N2 – Knit till three stitches remain – pm, m1, k2, m1, pm, k1
Continue working in pattern, whilst increasing on N2 between the markers for the gusset on rows 1, 3, 5, 7 by knitting up to the first marker – slip marker, m1, k to next marker, m1, slip marker, knit last stitch

Row 1: N1 – k2, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p2, yo, k1, ssk, k3, p1, k2
N2 – K1, pm, m1, k2, m1, pm, knit to end

Continue working in pattern, whilst increasing on N2 between the markers for the gusset on rows 1, 3, 5, 7 by knitting up to the first marker – slip, m1, k to next marker, m1, slip, knit remaining stitches

Continue until there are 18 stitches between the markers – this should be achieved after finishing a row 7.  On next row (row 8), work in pattern to first marker, take off marker, transfer the 18 thumb stitches onto waste

holding yarn as we will work on these later, remove second marker, cast on two stitches to cover the gap then knit the remaining stitches.

Carry on with pattern on N1, plain stockinette on N2, working two full pattern repeats (or more if desired).

Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 6 rounds (or desired length)

Bind off loosely

Place all thumb stitches onto needle (or DPNs if preferred, I use magic loop for everything).

  • Work 5 rows in knit (for a shorter thumb, you may only want to do 2 rows)
  • Then work in K1, P1 ribbing for 6 rounds

Bind off loosely

Repeat for second mitt. Sew up the gap between the thumb and the hand and weave in any loose ends.

My New Mitts!

My latest mitts, ‘Autumnal Mitts’ which is available as a free download, currently available on Ravelry -

I will upload the pattern here shortly!